Friday October 11th I clipped all 11 chains of Hotel Supramonte 8b 400m (7b+,7c+,8b,8a+,8b,7c,7a+,7b+,7b,7b,6b+) for a perfect no-fall day.
I have known the route from last season when I had really bad luck with conditions. This year the hardest part was to find climbing partner that would like to climb with me or support me in my project. I decided come to Sardinia alone and with a little help of my friend Valter, put some fixed ropes and practiced the crux pitches with my little @petzl_official friends croll and microtraxion.
Meantime I was waiting for someone that I can climb with.
During September I had the opprtunity to climb with one friendfor a while but the temperatures were so high that I wouldn’t call it properly climbing
In Octobre my boyfriend Read Macadam who went to equip new sport climbing zones in Saudi Arabia bought a ticket and convinced our friend Simone Papalia to come to Sardinia. In our second day of climbing (with 2 days rest between) I was able to finish my dream with a big smile on my face :)
This day I climbed quite fast. I needed 5 hours to climb 1st 6 pitches (7b+, 7c+,8b, 8a+,8b,7c...) When I arrived to last pitch 6b+ the stressfull situation started. I had to climb 50m of poorly protected (2 bolts) 6b+ in complete darkness.
I got lost in the wall and tried to improve my trad skills ;) My climbing partner Simone Papila was great support that give me faith that I climb each pitch and finish my story with Hotel this day.
I also would like to thanks Valter De Lucia for fantastic support last season.
I have never supposed how big an effort it would be to climb so many pitches in a row without giving up.
I would like to express myself well but it’s quite hard to speak about feelings that everybody should experience alone to understand what is going on...